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Old Truck Club


The Man Who Saved Millions of Lives

Millions of motorists and pedestrians drive the highways and cross the streets of the world in safety because of one American’s thoughtfulness and foresight. This benefactor was William P. Eno, of Saugatuck, CT. Eno invented the stop sign, wrote the first set of police traffic regulations, and suggested establishing standard traffic rules for the United States.
In 1867, at the age of nine, young William Eno got caught in a New York City traffic jam and the experience made a deep impression upon his youthful mind. “There were only about a dozen horses and carriages involved,” he recalled later, “and all that was needed was a little order to keep the traffic moving. Yet nobody knew exactly what to do, so we sat there for about an hour waiting for the mess to unsnarl itself.
Twenty-three years later, Eno wrote an article entitled “Reforming Our Street Traffic Urgently Needed” for a magazine called Rider and Driver. Eno’s sensible ideas attracted attention. New York police officials asked him to write out some traffic rules and regulations and they quickly adopted his suggestions. City officials across the continent followed suit.
In subsequent articles, Eno mentioned the installation of stop signs and the establishment of mounted traffic squads. He also suggested one-way streets, pedestrian safety islands, bus stops, taxi stands, and traffic signal towers.
Eno’s original articles on safety dealt with the traffic gridlock created in cities by horses and carriages. A few years later, as the first automobiles chugged onto the scene, Eno published Traffic Regulations and his book became a best-seller of traffic safety.
Over the years, the world-renowned traffic expert made countless trips to Europe and Asia to help officials with their problems.
Throughout his life, William Eno preferred horses to cars. The “Father of Traffic Safety” never learned to drive a car; Eno died in 1945 at the age of 86.

Tech Tip

Do you dislike messy paint cans when working on your truck? If you only need a little paint out of a quart or larger can, it is either difficult to pour a small amount or, if you do, you have paint in the rim of the can and you must clean out or settle for a messy seal. The solution to this problem for painters has been to use a glass turkey baster to transfer paint from the can to a mixing container or gun. You can only transfer a fraction of an ounce at a time, but a lot of cleanup time is saved. As an extra bonus, the glass baster cleans up easily after you`re done. It's handy for transferring other fluids too!



Tech Tip


Everyone knows that electrical and brake cleaners are a must in every do-it-yourselfer's arsenal of supplies, but one should also include a pencil eraser. Every now and then an electrical gadget in one of our trucks fails mysteriously or works only intermittently. We check all connections and fuses and find the power stops at the push button. Instead of putting on a new part (some are hard to find NOS), take your pencil eraser and clean the unit by rubbing the points of contact. This cure will fix horn button contacts, door jam switches, relay terminals and anything that has a point of contact switch or button operating a low amperage device. Just rub until the surfaces are bright and shiny. You can also, while you are at it, adjust any tension springs that may be weak from many years of use.


Tech Tip

To safely remove a light bulb, wrap masking tape around it to provide a better grip. If the bulb shatters in the process of removal, the masking tape will prevent glass from cutting your fingers.




Wintertime Storage For Your Ford Truck

Truck collectors know only too well that storing their prized possession for a long period can wreak havoc, unless they take precautions. Batteries die, fluids leak, rust forms, rubber withers, paint oxidizes, and mice set up housekeeping in the engine compartment. Such are the perils awaiting a truck to be put in mothballs for several years or even a few months. However, no damage occurs with proper preparation, and reviving a truck after several years storage can be fun and rewarding. The same holds true for a truck that you just want to store for a few months. Ideally, your truck should be stored in a clean, dry garage. It should also be covered since it will collect a thick layer of dust that will sink into the finish leaving it dull and dry. Whether you buy a cover or make one from old sheets or blankets be sure it is cotton or a cotton-polyester combination. Cotton allows your truck’s finish to breathe. Nylon and plastic trap moisture and harm the paint. Such covers are handy for quick protection from rain but are not intended for storage. It’s better to leave your truck uncovered than trap it under a layer of plastic. Ready-made covers have elastic hems or tie-downs and are available with undercarriage ropes for extra security. Never use tape to secure sheets or blankets on your truck since adhesive permanently damages paint and chrome. If you can afford it, a quality truck cover is a wise investment. In addition to providing a custom fit, the best ones also repel water and mildew, come with flannel linings to prevent abrasion, and can be optioned with locks to discourage theft. Removing the battery from your truck will also deter thieves. However, your truck’s biggest villain is rust so clean and wax it prior to storage. For extra protection generously wax bumpers and other chrome surfaces but do not buff out the wax. Mildew often forms on the interior, but it will be easier to remove if you condition leather and vinyl before storage. Saddle-soap leather with something like Connally’s Hide Food and treat vinyl, plastic, and rubber surfaces with a product such as Armor All. For long-term storage many truck owners spray WD-40 oil on metal parts of the engine, suspension, and chassis. However, this is not necessary for storage of less than a year. Be sure the gas tank is full to prevent condensation. Also, inflate tires about 10 psi over normal pressure since they will lose a lot of air while sitting idle for several months. Check to be sure you have a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water in the cooling system which will show minus 34 degrees Fahrenheit on an antifreeze tester. Be sure windshield washer fluid also contains antifreeze. Just before you put the truck in storage run it on the highway so that the engine will be thoroughly warmed up. This will lubricate the engine. If your truck is air-conditioned run that unit also to lubricate the seals in the compressor. When you park the truck do not set the parking brake. They often freeze up during storage and will cost money and aggravation to repair. Close windows, doors, hood. Lock the truck and cover it. If you remove the battery store it in a cool, well ventilated area. Years or months later when you want to revive the truck, the first thing you should do is check for leaks. Due to gravity and temperature changes, water, oil, brake, power steering, and transmission fluids often leak while trucks are stored. Also inspect the fuel tank and rear end where rear axle fluid sometimes leaks. Charge, clean, and reconnect the battery. Inspect and, if necessary, adjust hoses and belt tensions. You will likely have trouble starting the truck. This is normal. Assuming you stored an older model without electronic controls perform these steps: Remove spark plugs and crank engine to pre-lubricate engine, fill the carburetor, and expell any accumulations in the cylinders. Then gap and reinstall plugs. Start the engine, monitor all gauges, then drive slowly for several miles to circulate lubricants and soften seals. Brake gently at first, make several stops, gradually reaching normal braking pressure. This removes dust, if any, from drums or disc rotors. If the truck pulls to one side after several stops, examine brake cylinders for a seized piston or other problem. As soon as possible, tune-up the engine, recheck fluids, belts and hoses, and inspect the exhaust system. Mildew can be removed with either mild soap and water or Armor All. You’ll be surprised how dirty your truck is despite its having been covered. And don’t be alarmed if you disturb a family of mice under the hood. They love engine compartments where they have ready access to paper filter elements and hood insulation for nest building.






CONVERT YOUR 6-VOLT VEHICLE TO 12-VOLTS

This is one of the most rewarding gestures you can do for your favorite old car/truck and yourself, comparing time and money spent to amount of benefit gained.No more hard starting, hot or cold; no more dim, yellow (dangerous) headlights; no more accessories that aren't compatible.Instead, you have a new degree of serviceability, safety, and ease of operation. And, it can all be done in a couple of hours, inexpensively, and without any serious modification to originality! Read on. First, let's establish that, provided it's in good shape, your original wiring harness is more than up to the task. 6-volt systems carry twice the Amps of 12-volt systems, which means their wiring in considerably heavier than required. This is the perfect time, too, for Ford and GMC's to convert POS to NEG ground, for ease and conformity. Three little moves get that done: 1.Simply reverse the wires on the Ammeter. (The previous "In" will now be "Out" and vice-versa). 2.Also reverse the wires on the coil. 3.Finish by reversing the battery cables. POS will now go to the starter, and NEG will go to ground. Much benefit can be gained by moving "ground" from frame to a starter attachment bolt. Do This! (These three operations are done with the battery disconnected, of course!) Now, to the conversion itself and the (2) basic approaches: (1) with a 12V generator, or (2) with a 12V alternator, with internal regulator. We'll begin with the 12V generator approach.

Conversion with 12v Generator

This is an easy way that retains the originality you may be concerned with. Simply obtain a corresponding 12v generator (perhaps making some minor bracketing or mount change), or have the existing 6v generator converted by installing 12v field coils into the existing generator case. How could it be easier? (Along with original appearance, there is another distinct benefit to this approach, and that is, that a generator will charge a dead battery; an alternator will not! In fact, operating an alternator in a completely discharged system can damage the alternator, since it requires an electrical source to energize. It is true, of course, that any generator system will show "discharge" at idle, while an alternator does not. With the quick recovery of the generator system at "r's", however, only the most severe loads will overtax it. But, it's your decision.)

Conversion with an Alternator

This is probably the more widely used approach but some originality in appearance must be sacrificed. The minimal wiring changes are no big deal. Use a DA plug which allows discarding the old voltage regulator. Here, the "Batt" wire that went to the regulator is extended to the post of the alternator where it meets the red wire of the DA plug. Then, "heat" is picked up at some convenient "ignit" spot (the switch or the coil wire) and a wire run to the white DA wire. Presto! The old regulator and the "field" and "arm" wire of the harness are also eliminated. Very tidy. Here are the items and changes that will be needed, according to which procedure is adopted: 1.A 12-Volt battery. (Pick a size that fits the carrier.) 2.A 12-Volt regulator, (if using a generator) 3.A 12-Volt coil. 4.A fistful of corresponding 12v bulbs (dash, stop/tail, etc.), including headlights. 5.An ignition ballast resistor (NAPA p/n ICR-13), which will be installed in the wire from the ignition switch to the coil. (You've seen 'em on the firewall, like a '55 Ford.) 6.A voltage reducer for each accessory, such as radio, and/or heater (install it before the switch!). (NAPA/Echlin: VT6187) it's inexpensive. 7.Use Standard Ignition (VRC 604) for the gas gauge.



Tips On Using Orange (Long-Life) Antifreeze

When consumers hit their local auto parts store in search of antifreeze for the winter driving season, they may be in for a surprise. The familiar coolant they have grown so accustomed to buying over the years is also available in a new orange-colored formulation. While the service life of traditional green antifreeze averages two years or 30,000 miles, the new extended-life orange antifreeze is rated to last five years or 100,000 miles. Many major antifreeze manufacturers introduced their versions of the orange antifreeze to consumers in the last few months, but it’s been installed in most General Motors vehicles since the 1996 model year. However, it’s more than simply a color change say experts at the National Automotive Radiator Service Assoc. (NARSA), a worldwide trade association of radiator and cooling system specialists. The new color, which is dye, was chosen to make it obvious to consumers that the antifreeze itself is very different. “The orange-colored antifreeze uses a conventional ethylene glycol base like its green counterpart, but that’s where the similarities end, “ says Wayne Juchno, NARSA executive director. “The inhibitor package is so completely different that it has limited compatibility with the traditional green antifreeze.” In March, Valvoline introduced its version of the extended life antifreeze - Zerex Extreme Life. Like other extended-life antifreezes, Zerex Extreme Life uses a formulation of organic acids instead of the traditional rust and corrosion inhibitors, namely silicates. “Silicates have long been used in antifreeze to protect the aluminum in a vehicle’s cooling system, but they can have a relatively short life span if not properly stabilized,” says Dr. Dave Turcotte, Valvoline car care manager. “Plus, low-quality, silicate-based coolants have been known to wear water pump seals and cause deposits and pitting in aluminum radiator tubes if service intervals haven’t been properly maintained.” Regardless of whether consumers use orange or green antifreeze in their vehicles, NARSA recommends the following: *If your vehicle came from the factory with orange antifreeze, make sure its cooling system is always serviced with orange antifreeze. The extended service life is jeopardized if a system is “topped off” with traditional antifreeze. *As long as the cooling system is completely drained and flushed, orange antifreeze can be installed in an older vehicle for longer coolant life, but not necessarily to the five year/100,000 mile mark. Some antifreeze manufacturers, like Valvoline, say that if installed properly, the new orange antifreeze can protect cooling system components for four years or 60,000 miles which is twice the change interval of conventional green antifreeze. Consult the antifreeze manufacturer’s recommendations for specific details. *Do not install orange antifreeze in a cooling system containing green antifreeze at the same time a new part, such as a water pump or radiator, is being installed. The orange antifreeze’s organic acids can conflict with the silicate inhibitors remaining from the green antifreeze resulting in inadequate corrosion protection.



Secrets of the Pro

Brush it! In the early days there were several cars makes that were actually hand brush painted. One was the Moon automobile. The technique of brush painting was carried over from the horse-and-buggy days. Back then they used wood for the buggy bodies, so they did not have the smoothest of surfaces to start with. They applied a coat of paint or varnish and let it dry. Then they would sand it down and apply more paint, as we do today, only we spray our paints on between sandings. The reason I mention this brushing technique is that it is very easy to do. I am not suggesting that you brush paint your entire vehicle, but I would recommend brushing after you have made any body repairs involving only a small area. It does not take a lot of clean up and you can paint only the area that needs it. If you are using a high-build primer for your repair, this technique works excellent. It is fast and you do not have to dirty your spray gun. Once the primer has dried, you sand it just as you would any other time. Just like in the horse-and-buggy days! Brush paint your engine: For years' people could not believe that you can brush paint engines! They always look so smooth and shiny. Any time you are restoring the engine compartment of a vehicle and you need to paint the engine block, why not brush it? You have more control as to where the paint goes. You can build it up for cosmetic purposes. Brushing allows you to easily avoid exhaust manifolds and such, and you would have to remove all these extra parts or tape them off if you sprayed the paint. The engine needs to be clean just as it would if you were spraying it. Otherwise, there are no special tricks to brush painting. Try buying your engine paint in quart cans. Then brush an area that you are able to keep wet. Carefully brush out any brush strokes by “dabbing” the surface with your paint brush. When you are through, people will not believe you have brushed painted the engine. Another advantage to brush painting an engine is being able to touch it up when needed. A perfect example is small-block Chevy engines. They tend to burn the paint off around the heat crossover in the middle of the intake manifold. Just clean the area well and brush on some new paint! This way you can keep things looking like new. Besides buying an over-the-counter ready-mixed engine paint, you can paint your engines using a custom-mixed catalyzed enamel. This type of paint resists gas, oil, and even brake fluid!



L-O-F Glass Search caters to collectors

Libbey-Owens-Ford Co. of Toledo, Ohio, one of the nation’s largest makers of glass for new cars and trucks, has a lesser-known market. It has in stock 68,000 windshields and other windows for vintage cars and trucks, and has the ability to make glass for such vehicles at its Rossford, Ohio plant. Business from its five-year-old Glass Search division (800-848-1351) could translate into glass sales of up to $2 million this year, said Matt Lane, operations supervisor for the division in Columbus. “We sell to the auto glass industry, we sell to restorers and we also sell to individual car enthusiasts,” he said. This year, L-O-F Glass Search expects to sell 10,000 glass pieces directly from the Columbus warehouse or through L-O-F’s 90 service centers nationwide. About 60 percent of what is sold comes from the division’s stockpile of original, unused pieces. The rest comes from competitors with “new old stock,” Lane said. If an original piece of glass can’t be found, L-O-F and its British parent company, Pilkington Plc., will put original logos and coding on reproduced glass to help with authenticity. Reproduction side and rear windows are made in the Rossford plant a couple of times a year, Lane said. Whenever possible, reproduction-making factories in Rossford, in Mexico and in England use original molds and tools. When the originals aren’t available, glass taken from another model of the same year is used to form the patterns for molds for tools. Lane said. Reproduced glass is favored by many auto enthusiasts for safety reasons. Vintage glass wasn’t tempered as rear and side windows are now nor laminated as windshields are, so it breaks into large, sharp pieces. Tempered glass breaks into small pieces, and laminated glass stays in one piece when broken, Lane explained. Not every piece of glass that Glass Search sells is for antique vehicles, either. “Even into the late ‘70s and 1980s there are obsolete parts not available on the regular market that Glass Search can get,” Lane said.

Brake Adjustments

 Adjustments to brakes on Ford F-1 and later light trucks are made by reaching through the access hole in the bottom of the backing plates and turning the star wheel. Although a screwdriver can be used for this operation, a special brake-adjusting tool, shaped like a lazy Z, works best. The brakes should be adjusted by moving the shoes toward the drums until a slight drag is felt, then backing off the adjuster wheel ten or twelve clicks until the drums turn easily. Adjustments at all four wheels need to be as uniform as possible to prevent one or more of the wheels from locking under panic braking and to keep the shoes from dragging.
The earlier-style brakes adjust by turning the cams that are located at the three-o’clock and nine-o’clock positions on the rear of the backing plates. Adjusting this style brakes is somewhat more complicated than adjusting the F-1 and alter type. The drums on these trucks have a feeler gauge slot in the front. To adjust the brakes, rotate the drums until the feeler gauge slot is in front of the bottom of the secondary, or rear, brake shoe. Now insert a 0.007in feeler gauge through the slot and move the feeler up the secondary shoe until it wedges between the shoe and the drum. Then loosen the anchor pin nut for the secondary shoe and turn the secondary shoe anchor pin until the feeler gauge can be inserted between the shoe and the drum at a point 1-1/2in up from the bottom of the shoe. The anchor pin nuts are located at the bottom of the backing plate; the anchor pin for the secondary shoe is the rear of the two nuts.
Next rotate the drum until the feeler gauge slot is in front of the upper end of the secondary shoe. Now insert a 0.01in feeler gauge through the slot and move the gauge down until it wedges between the shoe and the drum. Next turn the adjusting cam until the shoe drags against the drum. Then turn the anchor pin until the clearance between the brake shoe and the drum at a point 1 1/2in down from the top of the shoe is 0.01in. This done, remove the feeler gauge and torque the anchor pin nut to 80lb-ft to 100lb-ft. Repeat this procedure on the primary, or front, shoe and at the other wheels.

National Street Rod Association Vehicle-Safety-Inspection Requirements

At summer shows and rod runs, it is common to see the conducting of safety inspections of cars that travel to such events. Inspectors drive the old cars up a set of ramps and go over dozens of mechanical systems.
While not all components and systems checked by groups like the National Street Rod Assoc. (NSRA) will apply to “stock” cars, it’s a good idea to review NSRA safety-inspection requirements.
By going over these, you can catch car problems that need attention over the winter. Based on what you find in your inspection, you can plan your projects in an orderly fashion.
NSRA requires the first 16 items below be checked. If a car satisfies all items, a Safety Inspection Verification Sticker will be affixed to the windshield by an NSRA State Inspector. It will be honored through the next May.

Horn

 An electric horn which can be heard at a distance of at least 200-ft. in front of the vehicle is required. A switch (horn button) used to engage the horn must be easily accessible to the driver when operating the vehicle.

Speed Indicator

A speedometer or tachometer is required. If a tachometer is used, a mark indicating 55 mph is required.

Rear-View Mirror

One rear-view mirror is required on either the inside of a vehicle or outside on the driver’s side. The mirror must be securely mounted, with no cracks. Glass Safety plate, Lexon or tempered glass required. No cracks which interfere with the driver’s vision or allow one piece of glass to be removed. No exposed sharp edges allowed. No stone chips larger than 1-in. in diameter. All openings designed for glass must have glass, unless modifications eliminate window openings. If vehicle doesn’t have identification markings on glass (AS-2, safety plate, etc.), use an object such as a pencil to check for a double image. Plexiglass is not allowed.

Lighting

 Two headlights required. All must be equipped with a two-position dimmer switch that lowers and raises the candlepower of the headlights. Rheostat-type switches not allowed. Vehicle must be equipped with tail-, brake- and license-plate lights that illuminate the license plate. Two tail and two brake lights recommended.

Windshield Wipers

Vehicle must be equipped with at least one electric or vacuum-operated wiper in front of driver. A hand-operated wiper is not acceptable. Clamp-on electric wiper acceptable on open vehicles, only if wiring and clamp mechanism are well engineered. Clamp-on wiper not allowed on convertibles with folding tops or closed vehicles. Wiper assembly may be installed in removable top. Suction cups/magnetic devices not allowed. Wiper arm and blade must be installed at time of inspection. Blade cannot be damaged.

Automatic Transmission Lock-Out

Vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission must be equipped with a neutral-safety switch that allows the vehicle to start in either neutral and/or park only.

Tires

D.O.T. markings required. Must have 3/32-in. minimum tread depth. Should not rub body or frame of vehicle. No sidewall cuts, cracks, or tread cuts exposing tire cord. No slicks.

Steering

Two-inch play in steering wheel allowed. Three-inches of play allowed in vehicles equipped with a flexible steering coupler (rag joint). The steering box and column must be mounted in a manner that allows only minimum flex or movement of the steering box or column, when pressure is applied to the system. The steering system cannot have any bind in it or come in contact with tires, headers, radius rods, etc. when turned to the full right or left. Unconventional steering components are not allowed (for example: chain drive, sprockets, electrical solenoids, etc.). Steering components must be produced for automotive use.

Throttle Linkage

Vehicle must be equipped with an accelerator-control system that returns the vehicle’s throttle to an idle position when the driver removes the actuating force (generally the foot) from the accelerator (gas pedal). Check to make sure the linkage does not travel past center of the carburetor in a fully-depressed position. Accelerator pedal and linkage must be securely attached. Check so there are no obstructions that would cause the accelerator pedal to stick in the open position. If the vehicle is equipped with cruise control, the device cannot interfere with the normal operation of the throttle linkage. Dual return spring recommended.

Fuel System

No leaks allowed. If fuel tank is located in trunk or interior of vehicle, the tank must be vented to the outside of the vehicle, and have a sealed inlet (filler) pipe. Check venting of fuel tanks on T-buckets that are usually installed in the bed area along with the battery. Clear-plastic fuel lines not allowed unless the lines have braiding showing through the plastic. Copper tubing and neoprene allowed.

Exhaust System

No leaks allowed. The system must be mounted in a safe, secure fashion, and not interfere with the operation of the vehicle. No part of the exhaust system may pass through the passenger-carrying compartment of the vehicle. Tailpipes cannot end before the rear edge of the front door and must exit exhaust away from vehicle.

Self-Aligning Rod Ends

Check for cracks and fractures in housing. Check for wear, sloppiness or binding of inserts. This check will also include checking tie-rod ends for fractures and excessive play.

Shock Absorbers

One automotive-type shock absorber (per wheel) required. Shocks should have a minimum of two-inches of travel in each direction. Smashed or severely leaking shocks (not slight dampness) are cause for rejection. If vehicle is depressed, it should stop vertical motion in two cycles.

Brakes

Four-wheel hydraulic brakes required. Check brake pedal travel in both directions. Rod to master cylinder must not fall out when pedal is pulled back, and adequate pedal must remain when pedal is depressed. No leaks. All brake lines must be steel or equivalent. No copper tubing allowed. Check for damp spots on lower edge of backing plate and on disc rotors. Check length and condition of flexible brake lines when front wheels are turned to extreme right or left. All flexible brake hoses must have a bracket installed between the flexible line and the steel line. This bracket must be securely mounted to the body, frame or other part of the vehicle, such as the differential housing.

Scrub Line

Dual master cylinder recommended. On both the front and rear suspension of the vehicle, stretch a taut string from the bottom of each wheel rim to the bottom of each of the other three tires at the road surface. If any part of the steering, suspension, or chassis is below this string, the vehicle will fail scrub line test. Allow an additional 1/4-in. assuming the tire will not come off the rim if the tire should go flat. Items exempt from scrub line check will include body sheet metal, bumpers, exhaust system, oil and transmission pan. The seven items that follow are recommended, by not required. If the car being inspected satisfies all items above and all of those that follow, a “Safety 23” pin will be awarded to the owner, in addition to the NSRA Safety Inspection Verification Sticker.

Windshield

Must be safety plate. AS-1 recommended.

Shift Pattern

Shift pattern must be visible within area of shift lever. A permanently attached plate is recommended. Masking tape or equivalent not allowed. Not required on three-speed-manual-transmission-equipped vehicles.

Fuel Lines

Should be safely mounted and routed. If fuel lines need an additional clamp or can be moved without a major problem, the vehicle will pass. If any fuel line is leaking or is mounted in such a manner that it comes in contact with the exhaust system or any moving part of the vehicle and cannot be moved, the vehicle will fail.

Parking Brake

Put vehicle in drive or slip clutch. Parking brake should keep it from moving at engine idle. Line Loc not recommended, as it used the primary braking and electrical systems.

Self-Aligning Rod Ends

All rod end bearings that have any misalignment should have 1/8- to 1/4-in. spacer on each side of the ball. Misalignment should not exceed 10-degrees. Rod ends and four-bar parallel-radius-rod system. Rubber-bushed rod ends should have a safety washer at least the same outside diameter as the housing - or larger.

Brake Lines

 Should be safely mounted and routed. If the brake lines need an additional clamp or can be moved without a major problem, the vehicle will pass. If the brake line is leaking, crushed or mounted in such a manner that it comes in contact with the exhaust system or any other moving part of the vehicle (and it cannot be moved), the vehicle will fail inspection.

Chassis Fasteners

All chassis fasteners should have some type of locking device (lock washers, cotter pins, self-locking nuts, or safety wire) installed. A minimum of at least one thread should be exposed. If Ny-Loks are used, thread should pass through the plastic and be exposed. Loctite not accepted because it is impossible to prove it has been used.

Optional Safety Equipment

The following items are not part of the NSRA Inspection Program, but should be considered for your own safety: fire extinguisher (in driver/passenger compartment), seat belts, and third brake light.

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